Best Pruning Saw Gardeners' World of 2024

To help you out, we've compiled a list of the top-rated pruning saws on the market today.

But first of all, why use a saw when you might use a shear instead? Pruning and shearing are two distinct processes. Shearing refers to the act of trimming only the top sections of the plants’ new growth. You should choose for this technique if you want to obtain a formal, custom-made shape.

Pruning, on the other hand, refers to the process of cutting away parts of a plant for the goal of boosting growth, giving more room and removing sick areas of a plant, which is fundamentally done to stimulate growth as well.

There are two fundamental tactics to go for when pruning your plant and this would be either thinning or slow regeneration. Thinning refers to the act of eliminating entire branches back to the primary branch at ground level.

This allows critical nutrients to flow to the interior and lower regions of your plant. Thin out the elder stems first, to allow the side shooters to grow and branch out.

Annual removal of some of the older and higher branches at or slightly above ground level is what is meant by "gradual rejuvenation." This strategy does well for aged and overgrown plants. Keep in mind that this procedure necessitates a three-year time commitment.

The first year, only cut one-third of the oldest and most unproductive branches. The following year, you can then clip away one-half of the old stems. Finally, in the third year, trim out the remaining branches.

Now that we've dispelled any lingering ambiguity, what exactly is the purpose of a pruning saw? What is a pruning saw in fact? Well, in brief, I may say that it is a step-up of a conventional shear and a step down from chainsaws. Fret not, at the end of this post, not only will you be able to answer those questions, you could know for yourself some of the best pruning saw available today!

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Blade material types & hardening process

Nowadays, high carbon steel is used to make most blades. Carbon is what gives steel its tensile strength. The more carbon in the steel, the harder it is. High carbon steel is the ideal material used in folding pruning saw blades since it is so hard and hence stays sharp for a long period.

One of two methods is used to harden this steel (in order to keep it sharp for a longer period of time).

• Quench Hardening: This entails a procedure of heating the saw blade steel to a very high temperature and then immersing it into a bath of oil or water until it cools.

• Impulse Hardening: ARS, a leading manufacturer of premium pruning saws, describes this process as follows: "Impulse hardening" "The process uses impact energy created by high-frequency currents to heat and cool the blade at extremely precise intervals (within thousandths of a second)." The advantage of impulse hardening is that the teeth are 3x harder than quench hardening and last 3x longer - but you’ll pay a premium for this endurance.

Our studies showed that blades toughened using both approaches cut equally well when the saws are new. However, in the long run, the impulse-hardened blade will be preferred, not because its teeth are any sharper than those of a quench-hardened blade, but rather because the hardening process ensures that the teeth will remain sharp for a longer period of time.

A protective coating or plating is required because high carbon steel is prone to rust when exposed to moisture.

Be cautious that chrome plating eventually fades off, especially around the teeth. The Stanley Bow Saw blade, for example, is coated to prevent corrosion when used with high carbon steel that has not been chrome plated.

A little coating of lubrication along the blade and teeth will keep your saw from rusting if the chrome plating on it starts to wear away. We prefer Tri-Flow.

Cutting teeth geometry – cutting direction

To get a rapid, clean cut with a non-binding blade, proper tooth geometry is essential. These days, the majority of saws have teeth that have been triple ground. This makes them not only exceedingly sharp but reduces the cutting time by one half, as compared to saws that have a double grind tooth.

Depending upon the geometry of the cutting teeth, the saw will cut on only the pull stroke, only the push stroke, or in both directions. From a human body mechanics standpoint, you can generate more power by pulling than pushing. Keep this in mind while picking a saw for your diverse pruning activities.

Clean cuts

You won't know how well a saw slices until you put it to the test or read a comprehensive evaluation. And clean cuts are rather subjective; what one thinks a clean cut may not always satisfy another.

When pruning a living tree or shrub, make sure the cut has no ragged edges or torn bark. The quality of a cut is usually attributed to the quality and geometry of the saw’s cutting teeth.

A neat cut will "callus" over better than a ragged one if it is done correctly. Cleaner cuts are better for the health and vitality of a plant while it is trying to mend the area where the branch/limb was removed.

Following extensive testing, it has become clear that different saw manufacturers create saws with various degrees of cutting tooth quality. Most blades and tooth sharpening geometries cut cleanly, although some are cleaner than others.

Why is it so difficult to determine which blades are most effective at achieving a clean cut? Learn more about the product by reading our reviews or those on other blogs, watching product videos on YouTube, and checking out real customer reviews on e-commerce websites. Check to see if the saw has been tested. Without even touching the tool, many websites simply compile a list based on Amazon reviews...

And as an aside, I’ve found from personal testing of a huge number of saws that it isn’t generally the most costly saw that creates the cleanest cut.

Foldable

Foldable pruning saws are particularly convenient, as they take up less space, are safer (the blade is covered, so you can’t accidently cut yourself when it’s stored), and tend to last longer, as the teeth are shielded so they stay sharper.

They tend to cost a little more, but are worth the price.

Replaceable blades

No matter how carefully you use and store your pruning saw, the blades will ultimately grow blunt. They can typically be sharpened a few times, but will require replacement in time.

You'll have to buy a new pruning saw if yours doesn't have replacement blades. In the long term, this is far less inexpensive than buying a pruning saw that includes interchangeable blades.

Tri-cut functionality

Each manufacturer has its own name for this trait, but it all refers to a triangular shape that the saw blades have. This makes sawing easier and faster, as the saw is able to cut on both the push and draw stroke.

Quality

You might want to just pick the next economical pruning shear close to you but quality is a vital component you should consider.

If you get a quality pruner, it will serve you for a long time.

Look at the entire design of the pruner, notably the quality of the blade. What thickness of branches can it work through without getting damaged?

These are key questions you should ask.

Handle Design

Pick a pruner which has a comfortable handle. Some pruners have hand grips which make your task easier and reduce strain while working.

Also examine if the pruner is meant for little or large handed folks.

If you have a joint ailment, then consider styles that will reduce pressure on your joints.

Ease of Maintenance

Consider how easy it will be to maintain your new pruning shears before you acquire them. Is it a design you can easily pull apart for cleaning and sharpening purposes?

Choose a design for which you can readily obtain replacement parts in the event that the current ones break.

When you consider these things before making a decision, you should definitely acquire the pruning shears which are the greatest for you and which you would like for a long time.

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Which is the best pruning saw?

In my opinion, the greatest pruning saw not only should make exact cuts and be adaptable but should be safe to use as well. In this case, the GOXAWEE 10-inch pruning saw would be my pick.

What is the best saw for cutting tree branches?

The Fiskars 393951-1001 is a popular choice for cutting branches since it sports a 12-inch blade that can power through tougher tree limbs. The steel pruner and double-ground saw in the two-in-one design make it simple for the owner to make that precise cut. To close the pruner on branches up to an inch thick, use the string mechanism.

How Much Do the Best Pruning Saws Cost?

Because they are manufactured from the greatest quality materials, the best pruning saws cost a bit more than the others – but they are worth it in the long run because they last.

Pruning saws range in cost from from $20 straight up to $200. A folding pruning saw with a tri-cut blade will likely cost you $50 or more.

A high-quality tool costs $60-70, and a serviceable tool costs $30-40. Spending less than $30 and you are probably buying a tool that will last a season or two before you have to spend another $20-$30 on a new tool.

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Finding the appropriate saw for the right job can be a daunting task, which is why we've provided the list of questions listed above to aid in your search.

As the saying goes, "you get what you pay for." A saw made with low-quality materials or for a low price will not work as expected. On the other hand, a quality tool that makes clean, precision cuts will not only make the task easier and more fun, it will also benefit the tree/shrub through faster recovery and a more vigorous plant (provided the pruning cuts have been made properly) (assuming the pruning cuts have been made properly).

Pruning saws of high quality are made by a large number of companies. Now it’s time for you to make a decision and go out and have some fun.

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